GARMENTS BASED ON ANATOMY
Silk, polyester, cotton, natural and synthetic fibers.
Switching up conventions about the body and beauty, this series of garments based on anatomy shows representations of internal systems in wearable form. Merging fashion, biology and technology, artist and designer Amy Karle created these wearable art garments inspired by the human nervous system, lung, and ligaments. Each piece is created in a different method incorporating reality capture, 3D scans of the body, anatomical style drawings into digital designs (CAD), and laser cut pattern pieces which are then hand and machine sewn into the final garment.
Each piece had a unique design approach. The “Breathe” dress based on lung anatomy and jumpsuit based on the nervous system were created from anatomical style drawings that were hand drawn by the artist and then rendered into a pattern in the CAD modeling environment; the dress inspired by ligaments was derived from Verlan Dress from New Skins with Francis Bitonti Studio workshop at the Digital Arts and Humanities Research Centre of the Pratt Institute in New York that wrapped form around the body in 3D digital environment which Karle custom fit to a 3D body scan and flattened into flat pattern pieces in order to laser cut and construct out of soft material.
In the process of making these pieces, Artist Amy Karle addressed current industrial challenges of: utilizing 3D scanning to create custom fit patterns and garments, unwrapping and flattening complex CAD patterns in the digital environment, advanced pattern making in 3D digital environments into real-world soft goods, and creating zero and low-waste fashion designs.
Created while Artist in Residence at Autodesk; supported in part by the Pier 9 Artist in Residence Program at Autodesk Pier 9.
This custom couture laser cut gown was made using 3D scanning to create a custom fit pattern, advanced fashion pattern making in 3D digital environments into real-world soft goods, and low-waste manufacturing techniques.
Amy Karle and Michael Koehle collaborated to create the pattern for the corset of this gown, using algorithmically driven software based in Pepakura, a Japanese paper folding technique. Karle further designed a digital pattern by hand for the entire gown based off of the algorithmically created top pieces. The pattern pieces were nested for low waste manufacturing and laser cut out of leather backed with raw silk dupioni; leather being representative of skin and red silk representing the blood, muscles, and internal aspect of the body. Amy Karle then hand and machine sewed the pieces into the final dress.
Created while Artist in Residence at Autodesk Pier 9.
This body of work considers how cancer alters the body and perception of self. The pieces serve to study and replicate the transitions of cancer and what is left afterwards. Amy Karle begins by turning the body inside out, envisioning internal models of what the body and self experience. She externalizes this vision into a form outside of the body with the bulbous dramatization of shapes, specimen-like embellishments, l.e.d. highlighting, marked deterioration through disintegrating fabric treatments, use of meat and self-dismembering garments. The theme of cancer and its’ effects is the departing point of the work, delving into many facets of cancer to capture the enigma of contentment after fight.
Presented in fashion show format for American Cancer Society Benefit 2005
ONE OF A KIND COUTURE
A collection of mixed-media garments designed and made by Amy Karle while considering processes of deconstruction and reconstruction, experimenting with the decomposition of fabrics and recomposing treated textiles into wearable garments.
Initially presented in runway format at “Fashionably Detroit” Eastern Market Detroit, Michigan.